Setmana Santa Marinera: The Maritime Holy Week
If you've ever heard of the Holy Week celebrations in Spain, you'll know they are very solemn occasions; a time of melancholy and a sombre atmosphere. Quiet reverence is the mood as parades across the country feature the cofradías -- religious brotherhoods or fraternities, some of which go back to the Middle Ages.
The Grenadiers
València also has a unique division of the brotherhoods, known as the Grenadiers. These are three distinctive brotherhoods that are born of Napoleonic origin. Now, what does Napoleon`s invasion of Spain have to do with the Holy Week?
Well, at the time of war, the French were not very religious. But when València was occupied by Napoleonic forces, a legion of grenadier troops were ordered to protect the image of Mare de Déu dels Desamparats (Our Lady of the Forsaken - the patroness of the city of València) from those who would try to steal or cause destruction of a very sacred symbol to the region.
Even though they didn`t know and probably didn`t care of the significance that she holds to us, in the middle of a brutal war, this sign of respect and mercy spoke to the hearts of the people, and so these grenadiers are honored each Holy Week to thank them for their respect of our local customs in a time of war.
The Brotherhoods
Every brotherhood has a name and a certain costume and colors. Some dress as Roman soldiers. Some members wear the nazareno - a robe of penitence, and the capirote, the pointed hat which was historically used to guard their identity as they performed their penance. There are also pasos, which are large, decorated scenes from the Passion of Christ or the sorrows of the Virgen Mary.
In the València city capitol, this holiday is not celebrated as formally as in other cities of Spain. But travel to the nearby district of Grau-Cabanyal by the coast, and you`ll see something incredible: a holy week celebration with a maritime theme.
Why Have a Maritime Celebration of the Holy Week?
It sounds strange, doesn`t it? What does the ocean have to do with the pains that Christ endured? About as much to do with as grenadier soldiers! Well, it used to be that both Grau and Cabanyal were little towns, who made their livelihood by the sea. Now they have grown into a combined district, but the people of these villages did not want to lose their old traditions.
So it was decided that because the fishermen, who often endured difficult trials and tribulations at sea, also sacrificed much as Jesus did, that their work would be honored at the Holy Week - and for this reason it is called Setmana (week) Santa (holy) Marinera (maritime)
Throwing Mud Out of the Windows
On Easter Saturday, during the celebration, watch above your head at midnight! People of the neighborhood will throw pots of mud from the balconies. It is based on an old tradition called Trenca de Perols and is done at the time when the bells announce the Resurrection!
On the Sunday and Monday of the Resurrection, many people go to the old causeway of the river or to the beach, and eat a lot of typical foods - mostly breads made with eggs of chocolate and other delicious treats! It is also common to fly kites, dance, and of course there are fireworks on the coast. Did you think we used all the fireworks up at Falles? Never!